Mûre et Musc

Mûre et Musc

40 YEARS OF AN ICON

Mûre et Musc is the iconic debutante of L'Artisan Parfumeur's first collection and owes its success to Jean Laporte, visionary creator of the brand. It’s in 1978 that he had an intuition - to play on the red fruit facets of white musk by associating them with a fresh blackberry accord - setting not only this fragrance but this niche perfume house apart, as a true pioneer in perfumery. 40 years on, this unique and timeless scent has become an icon. Jean-Claude Ellena, a longtime friend and exceptional perfumer, tells their story.
Mure et Musc 40th Anniversary Science
Mure et Musc 40th Anniversary Book
Mure et Musc 40th Anniversary Copper Pipes
The Birth of a Classic

All alone in his small improvised laboratory at the back of a Parisian boutique Rue de Grenelle, Jean Laporte was inspired to create a white musk and blackberry accord. A short and transparent formula, greatly modern in its simplicity. It now needed to be dressed, structured and brought to life in a fragrance.

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And so, he went off to Grasse to meet a trio of young perfumers who were very much in vogue, Jean-Claude Ellena, Lucien Ferrero, and Jean-Claude Gigodot. Jean-Claude Ellena remembers their first conversation: “the scent is beautiful and tender, but it doesn’t diffuse beyond the bottle! What can I do?"

The blackberry component was clear, but Jean-Claude Ellena felt that this beautiful intention needed a hook, a preface, something that the creative perfumer called a head note.

"I advised him to use a blend of citrus, combined with tarragon and a hint of lavender. And then as a base, oak moss. We carried out several trials before finding the right combination. He went away with a handful of samples, and chose one", the perfumer recalls.

If Mûre et Musc is so addictive today, it’s that its soft cotton red fruit notes blend in perfectly with the top layer of the skin.

"A second skin" for some, "more than a perfume" for others.

"This accord Mûre et Musc was an immense success, a time marker that influenced the entire perfume industry."
Jean-Claude Ellena
Portrait
Aparatus
Book and Bottle
"totam aperia matea que ipsa quae ab illo"
Jean Laporte
Discover the ingredients
Lemon
Common in the Mediterranean and subtropical regions, lemons embody the heat, evoke the sun and invite to travel. Lemons began their journey in the Kashmir region and embarked on the Silk Road to reach the Middle East and ultimately, Italy. Soon, this citrus that overflows with sun took place in the practices of the Greeks, the Romans and the Arabs who became fascinated of its therapeutic properties. Recognized in the writings of the Roman botanist Pliny the Elder, as well as the Persian physician Avicienna, lemons also became a symbol of perfection and beauty for the Hebrews. In Mûre et Musc, lemons were selected for their freshness and their acidity, aromas that bring sun to the iconic juice.
Ingredient: Lemons
Blackberry

Abundant in the mountains of Europe, America and Australia, blackberries are known for their medicinal properties and for their gourmandise in cooking. This wild and juicy berry is also tied to Greek mythology telling that blackberry bushes are native to the blood shed by Titans fighting the Gods. Fresh, this rosacea reveals tart-sweet flavours. Cooked, it reveals gourmet aromas of caramel.

However, blackberry extract does not exist in perfumery, Jean Laporte created it by blending a molecule often found in flavoured foods, reminiscent of the coveting warmth of cooked raspberries, with a blackcurrant note. The illusion is perfect: one can almost see, smell and touch 'blackberry'.

Ingredient: Blackberry
White Musk

Natural musk is a rare and controversial substance that comes from the abdominal glands of the Musk Deer, a specie native of Siberia and the Himalayas. Natural musk is especially demanded in its liquid form for its aphrodisiac properties and its powerful flavours. Threatened of extinction, musk deers have been protected species for many years from hunting and breeding.

It is at the beginning of the 20th century that the chemist Lavoslav Ruzicka created "white musk", a chemical molecule as powerful, animal and stirring that its natural form. While musk was long synonymous of virility for its woody scent, women found their identity in the sensual and mysterious accords of the molecule.

White musks exist in several forms - some stand out for their amber accord, others for their powdery and red fruit facets. In Mûre et Musc, Jean Laporte selected the suave and hypnotic facet of white musks to charm us at each encounter with this atypical Eau de Parfum.

Ingredient: Musc